Home Slice

10 Dec

My hometown of Windsor, CT, is no culinary hotbed, but it has its charms. Every May, the village elders hold a giant carnival/craft fair/roach-clip-market called the Shad Derby to celebrate the arrival of A. sapidissima as it makes its way up the Connecticut River to spawn. As I remember it, there was always  fried dough, candy dots, a bounce house, and Seventies-style ground beef tacos from the Saint Gabriel’s School PTO booth. It was a time.

Fishing tournaments were, and remain, the major draw of the Derby. But for us, the pinnacle of the whole to-do was the crowning of the Shad Derby Queen. Watching the Court roll by on a flatbed float—it was the parade that launched a thousand dreams. By the time I was old enough to enter, I had decided that the whole thing was an offense to womankind, but now I’m sure I’d enjoy the spectacle.

I digress. Unless you like tasty, bony fish, Windsor has fairly modest food options. There are a couple of diners, an independent donut shop, a cafe, a surprisingly solid Indian restaurant. And now, to my parents’ delight, there’s a pizza place that might well be worth a special trip.

The Tunxis Grill looks the kind of American “Bar and Grill” you see everywhere these days, with lots of exposed brick, a few too many flat-screen TVs, and black-painted woodwork—the ’00s equivalent of the fern bar. But it has a lively, neighborhood-y vibe, friendly service, and, most importantly, really fine pies with good sauce, crispy-chewy crust, and fresh toppings. Our sausage/onion/olive combo hit all the right notes of smoke and tang. I can’t say they rank on the same level as New Haven’s finest, but they did remind us of Santarpio’s here in East Boston. And that’s saying something.


One Response to “Home Slice”


  1. What I did on my winter vacation: Tech, pizza, and restaurant edition « New England Eating - January 8, 2010

    […] after several December trips, including a Hanukkah jaunt to Miami and a holiday party in my hometown, we made our way to Woodstock, Vermont for a week of skiing, snowshoeing, and comfort food. Pretty […]

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